An Ode to Spices – Underworld by Christèle Jacquemin

At home, we have a little ritual. We collect spices, not just for cooking but to train our noses and test how faithfully perfumes capture the essence of these notes. We thought we understood cardamom in perfumery—until we experienced Underworld by photographer and perfumer Christèle Jacquemin.

Let us tell you, this isn’t just cardamom. This is cardamom unleashed.

A Journey Through Spice

The opening of Underworld is an explosive burst of cardamom, pepper, and cumin. It’s rich, intense, and unapologetically spicy, taking you to an imaginary spice market in an instant. If you love bold scents, this opening will leave you in awe. The peppery sharpness dominates, but the cardamom remains ever-present, grounding the composition with its warm and aromatic character.

As the fragrance evolves, patchouli emerges, adding depth and an earthy sweetness. There’s also a subtle sweetness that might come from the carrot seed—though we confess, we’ve never smelled carrot seed on its own, so we’re left to wonder. Vetiver shows up later, clean and grassy, while the florals—especially tuberose—add soft, white nuances to the composition.

The incense note listed in the base doesn’t bring smoke, but rather a sweet, resinous quality, as if the incense remains untouched, waiting to be ignited. It’s an unexpected and sophisticated twist that keeps the scent intriguing right through the drydown.

“Congratulations to Christèle Jacquemin for this incredible creation—you’ve redefined our understanding of spice in perfumery.”

A Bold Performer

This fragrance is not for the faint of heart. With beastly projection and longevity, it demands attention. On our skin, it lasted well over 10 hours, making it perfect for cooler months like autumn and winter. But even now, in warmer weather, it’s a spectacle—a bold, spicy masterpiece that refuses to go unnoticed.

Artisan Perfumery at Its Best

Christèle Jacquemin has created something extraordinary with Underworld. It’s not just a perfume; it’s an experience, a lesson in the art of spice and a celebration of artisan craftsmanship. Few fragrances manage to balance power, complexity, and beauty as this one does.

Final Thoughts

If you’re a fan of spicy scents or looking to expand your olfactory horizons, Underworld is a must-try. It’s an intoxicating blend of bold spices, earthy patchouli, and delicate florals that feels both daring and refined.