Few things get us more excited than a new release from a house we already love. Today it’s MDCI with Vetyver Messager. Their first real vetiver centered fragrance after all these years of incredible creations.
Vetiver is one of those notes we appreciate very much. It can be rooty and earthy, smoky and dark, sometimes even chocolate like. So versatile, and in the right hands it becomes something unforgettable.
We’ve worn a lot of MDCI over time. Among the ones created by Nathalie Feisthauer, L’Aimee is still one of Maruša’s all time favorites, L’Homme aux Gants and Cuir Cavalier sit right up there for us too. So when we heard she was behind Vetyver Messager as well, her latest creation for the house, expectations were high. She’s done magic for MDCI before, and here she challenges vetiver in a way we didn’t know or experienced before.
First, the bottle.
Because it’s MDCI, it has to feel timeless. The classic format stays the same, but they use the tassel and the distinctive bead to signal masculine or feminine orientation. Female ones get a pearl-tone bead with golden-turquoise tassel, male ones a green or black bead with red-golden tassel. Vetyver Messager comes with a darker green bead, the masculine marker, but to our noses the smell sits very unisex. The Silk Road version has the same colors. The bottle feels great in hand, heavy in the right way.
The classic 75ml arrives in a simple white paper box. Minimal and clean. The Silk Road 100ml comes in a square box that’s very beautiful, sturdy, with nice weight. The bottle fits snugly inside. It gives a very premium feel overall.
Now, the smell
We were ready for something darker and rootier. Instead we got greeted by a bright, colorful opening with a gourmand vibe almost edible. The first time we spoke with creative director Claude Marchal (while asking questions for a video we were making about the release), we couldn’t help asking if this was meant for men or women. At that point unisex felt like the best answer.
On skin it starts very fruity and vibrant. Bergamot and grapefruit can be detected right away. So apparent even though blended masterfully, you can still pick them apart easily. There’s a juicy berry smell and spice too. This colorful stage lasts a few minutes before it turns a bit spicier and greener. (Official notes will be at the end of this post if you are curious)
Then the vetiver starts mutating. Green (grassy) and clean in the first half, smoky, earthy, even medicinal in the second. We got to know vetiver better for this one. We ordered a bunch of raw vetiver root for the video and photos so we could smell the real thing. But how did Nathalie make one ingredient shift through so many facets in the same perfume? We guess it was that “Feisthauer” magic touch 😀
The heart stays lovely. Vetiver lingers, getting smokier and rootier. A few florals jump in and out, sometimes juicy. We dare to say the gourmand aura is still noticeable here in the heart stage of the fragrance. That’s what makes this so unisex at least to our noses.
The drydown turns woody, clean, warm and sweet in a subtle way. You can really smell a clean and velvety vanilla and the beloved tonka bean aroma. Vetiver at this stage is mild but this time with a medicinal touch up. Fascinating to say the least.
We have to tell you this. To really experience and appreciate the beauty of Vetyver Messager, you must try it on skin. On paper it can be deceiving. Bright and fruity and doesn’t evolve much. We tested both ways many times, so trust our word 🙂
Performance and versatility
We admit we expected a bit more here. With all those long lasting ingredients, it didn’t cross the 3 hour mark before becoming a skin scent. And we mean very close to the skin.
We wore this perfume over a few different days, with some intervals in between, and each time it was the same. So all together, the whole olfactory experience lasted about 5 to 6 hours before it was completely gone.
Maybe we’re too spoiled with modern beasts, so take it with a pinch of salt.
Versatility is amazing though. Besides being unisex, we can easily recommend it for all seasons. Don’t worry about the smoky side, it will work in summer too.
We’ll share more when warmer weather hits Slovenia soon.
Formal or casual? You’re covered!
So that’s our take on Vetyver Messager, MDCI’s first vetiver, and it surprised us greatly. A bright, fruity start, evolving facets, gourmand heart, woody finish. Proper unisex through and through, and we’re happy they finally brought this to the table.
Thanks for reading along. Hope it caught some attention about this new one from MDCI.
As promised, here are the official notes for Vetyver messager
Head notes: bergamot, grapefruit, pink berries, cardamom, coriander, lavender, apple
Heart notes: geranium, carrot, hedione
Base notes: vetiver, oakmoss, benzoin, ambroxan, tonka bean, vanilla, ambrette,
musks
A quick note on how things work with MDCI
We’ve been working with MDCI for a while now in a couple of different ways. Through our video production company danielandmarusa.com we create their videos and photography. They’re a client of ours and we love collaborating with them. We also run dmzboutique.com, where we sell MDCI fragrances (we earn a commission on sales, they handle stock, shipping, and logistics).
But dmzscents.com is our personal space. Here we write freely and passionately about the perfumes we try, including MDCI’s. No one from the brand ever sees, approves, or influences what we write. Every review, opinion, and rating is 100% ours, straight from skin time and real use. We use our own bottles and the ones we received for filming for reviews, but the words are always ours alone.
We’re grateful for the partnership, but this blog stays our independent journal to fragrances.
Living fully, lightly scented 🌿
Thanks for stopping by. See you next time.
